Dodge & Mopar

Badges for Mopar builds, without touching the factory paint

The problem with most Dodge badge upgrades is that they are permanent. Drilled emblems leave holes. Vinyl fades and peels at the edges within two summers. Chrome overlays trap water against the panel and start lifting the clear coat underneath.

These are 3mm cast acrylic, laser cut and hand polished, with chamfered edges and UV-stable pigment layers. They go on with 3M automotive tape and come off with fishing line and a heat gun if you ever change your mind - which matters if the car is leased, or if you plan to sell it stock.

What is in this collection

Roughly three groups, and most Mopar owners end up buying across all of them:

• Model and trim callouts - Charger, Challenger, RAM, SRT and Scat Pack style lettering for fenders and tailgates.
• Engine badges - HEMI, 392, 345, 6.4 and Cummins displacement callouts. These are the ones people notice at fuel stops.
• Nicknames - the personal stuff. If your car already has a name, this is where it goes.

If the exact phrase you want is not here, the builder will cut it. Ten fonts, four lengths, and the same 20 finishes.

Where these actually go on the car

The tape needs a smooth, flat, sealed surface. On a Charger or Challenger that means front fenders behind the wheel arch, the trunk lid, and the lower door below the crease. On a RAM it means the tailgate, the bed sides and the fender flare flats.

Avoid deeply curved panels, textured plastic bumper covers and anything with an active body line running through it - the badge will bond at the ends and tent in the middle. If you are not sure, tape it on with masking tape first and drive it for a day.

Colors and finishes

Fifteen solid colors and five mirror finishes. On a black car, mirror silver and mirror red read hardest at distance. On white and silver cars, gloss black is the one that photographs well. Mirror finishes are a variant, not a sticker - the whole layer is mirrored acrylic, so it does not scuff off at the edges.